The Facts About Fall Clean Up Services Near Me

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See common lawn weeds to identify what’s most common in your yard! A word on dandelions: A common perennial weed in early spring, dandelions can also be dug out by their roots—or, just enjoy their yellow blooms. If you are maintaining a yard without chemicals, you could always harvest dandelion greens when young and tender! Snap off dandelion heads before they seed if you don’t want more dandelions next year.The Buzz on Why You Need A Professional Lawn Care Company To Clean

You may wish to re-seed some spots. The conundrum is: If you’re using a pre-emergent herbicide in the spring for crabgrass, it’s nonselective and will deter grass seeds from growing, too; this is why fall is a better time to seed grass. However, if you just can’t stand those bare spots, try spot-seeding bare patches as early as possible (by April) before you apply any pre-emergent for crabgrass control.

If this is not possible, don’t skip the pre-emergent weed control. It is better to take care of the bulk of your yard; wait until fall to perform any turf repairs. Before seeding, use a steel rake to scuff up the area. Loosen the soil. Scrape some compost into the area.

(Use a sun/shade premium mix, unless the area’s heavily shaded.) Keep the soil moist. Cover the seeds with straw matting or another material. Even grass clippings will do. You just want to cover the spot with some sort of material to hold seeds in place. If you’re then applying pre-emergent herbicides, we would also fertilize any spots in the lawn early; in a few weeks shoots will grow and fill in the brown spots.

How Leaf Removal Vacuum can Save You Time, Stress, and Money.

It’s too early to talk about thatch but we need to do it now because many folks do it way too early. When we say “thatch,” we’re talking about the matted areas which have died out; they can harbor snow mold. You don’t want more than ½-inch of thatch on the ground.

It’s essential the ground and grass is or you will do more harm than good, raking up grass seeds. Rule of thumb: If footprints remain after walking, then it’s still too moist. That said, rake as soon as it’s dry and the grass is still brown; raking too late will harm healthy roots.All about Fall Clean Up Near Me Facts About Spring Clean-up Near Me Revealed

However, many folks will also fertilize in the springtime. Do not make the mistake of fertilizing too early in the spring. This will divert the plant’s energy into leaf development too soon. Instead, the grass needs phosphorus for root development. The best time for the first spring application in most regions in late spring (around May), just as the grass is beginning to grow green and you want to promote a lush, green lawn.

A good feeding of ¾ to 1 pound of fertilizer will allow the plant to rebuild its food supply. When you fertilize grass in the spring, apply lightly. Heavy nitrogen (N) fertilization is not good for the grass and can also lead to disease problems. A healthy lawn is a light, bright green color; if it’s darker, that means too much nitrogen (which will also run off into our water supply).

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Also, consider a mulching mower—which returns grass clippings back to the soil. This saves you time and energy, while also improving the condition of your lawn. Since grass clippings contain up to 90 percent water, the clippings dry up very quickly. It’s almost as if the grass clippings disappear. Plus, this returns 25 percent of the nutrients to the soil—a fantastic fertilizer.

Remove thick layers of leaves which are covering evergreen ground cover beds. Thin layers of leaves in your beds can be left alone and simply mulched over later. They’ll break down and add organic matter to your soil. Then, loosen the soil to help oxygen reach the plants’ roots. You can use hand tools for small areas, but larger areas may benefit from tilling.

If you see patches of moss or signs of decline, we would advise aerating the lawn; this allows water and air to reach the root zone faster, resulting in new growth and increased root development. However, this is usually best done in the fall. Plan to rent a lawn aerator at your local home improvement store.

As it warms, you’re simply making room for, and inviting, aggressive weed seeds to find a home. Moss can also mean that your lawn is getting acidic. If you are growing grass, the goal is a neutral pH. Get a soil test (often free or done for a small fee through your local County Cooperative Extension office).

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You may wish to redraw the boundary between your garden beds and grass in springtime. Wider beds mean less lawn care, too. Here’s a simple way to do it yourself: Use a garden hose to mark out a nice line for your garden beds. Then, along this bed line, take a sharp metal edger and drive it into the ground as deep as it will go.

Once done, fill up the bed with 2 to 3 inches of mulch (pine bark is a good choice)—or you’ll just get a bed of weeds! Then you’re ready to transplant or plant perennial flowers. Mow the lawn when the grass level reaches 2 to 3 inches tall. The lawn needs time to recover after winter. https://www.youtube.com/embed/vwY8_tphVjA

If you use a traditional lawn mower, spring is the time to clean (or replace) the filter and spark plugs. It’s important to sharpen the mower blade every month or two for a clean cut. When you just rip grass and leave it with open cuts, you leave your yard susceptible to fungi and disease.

If you’re interested in alternative mowers, consider a reel mower or an electric mower as a more environmentally-friendly option. These mowers work best if your property is one-third of an acre or less. It’s important to mow your grass regularly, as it’s much more difficult to cut the grass if it gets way too tall (as many of us have experienced firsthand!).