Yard Clean Up


Yard clean up

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Spring clean up

Fall clean up

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Landscape And Yard Cleanup – Lawn & Landcare – An OverviewThe Best Strategy To Use For Follow This Spring Yard Clean Up ChecklistSome Ideas on 9 Easy Yard Cleanup Tips For Fall You Need To KnowGetting The Spring Yard And Lawn Clean Up To WorkLittle Known Facts About Find Lawn Care.The Best Strategy To Use For How Much Does It Cost To Hire A Yard Clean-upA Biased View of Lawn Clean Up Near MeThe Single Strategy To Use For What Exactly Is Spring Clean Up?

Just as people speak of “spring cleaning” tasks performed to freshen up a home that has been shuttered up all winter, so lawns and the rest of your landscaping need some TLC at this time of year to prepare your yard for the growing season. A spring yard cleanup checklist can be divided into six categories of related tasks, the first of which truly does involve something of a cleansing.

In some cases, it will save you from headaches farther down the road. In this first category of spring yard cleanup tasks, you will be picking up after Old Man Winter and any messy neighbors you may have to put up with. Roll up your sleeves and start removing: Litter and dog fecesDead grass, leaves, pinecones, etc.What Does Spring And Fall Yard Clean-ups - Lawn Care Mean?Getting The What Exactly Is Yard Clean Up? To Work

One of the first spring cleanup tasks to tackle is removing the litter they’ve deposited in the yard over the course of the winter. Don some heavy work gloves for this task, as it may involve removing broken glass. Another unpleasant task in spring yard cleanup is dog waste disposal.

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There’s not much you can do to stop litter, but there is something you can do to help keep other people’s dogs from defecating on your property: Begin researching dog repellents. You don’t want to be out there all summer long with a pooper-scooper. And no, don’t compost dog feces, for the same reason you shouldn’t try to compost cat poop: Carnivore feces contain pathogens, the removal of which through the composting process is best left to experts.

If you raked leaves thoroughly in the fall, you’ve aided your chances of avoiding the fungal disease known as “snow mold.” But, inevitably, there will still be some stray leaves to rake come March. That’s all right because even without leaves you would want to break out the rake as part of your spring cleaning work on the lawn because a deep raking will also help control thatch build-up.

Some people use pinecones in craft projects, such as making kissing balls, but, for the rest of us, they’re just a nuisance. Spring cleanup in the perennial bed begins with removing any dead leaves and stalks from perennials and ornamental grasses that you didn’t remove in fall. Scissors often work better than pruners for this task (you can get into tight spaces easier with them).

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By “carrot” we’re talking here about the reward with which tidying up outside culminates: planting and transplanting. But first things first. Let’s take a look at preparing beds, before getting to planting and prevention issues. The Spruce / K. Dave In established perennial beds that performed well the prior year, working in some additional compost around your plants to fertilize them and make the soil more friable is the best thing you can do (beyond the tasks already discussed).

While on the subject of compost, note that it’s not just for planting beds. Most all of your plants (including the grass in your lawn and your trees and shrubs) will enjoy a feeding of compost in the spring. The great thing about using compost as a fertilizer is that you never have to worry about burning plants with it.

If you must use chemical fertilizers, always be careful to follow the application directions, because chemical fertilizers will burn plants when used in excess. The one chemical fertilizer that really is convenient (at least in theory) is the “weed and feed” type that contains a preemergent herbicide to prevent crabgrass.

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If you’ve just opened up a planting bed by breaking new ground, you can be sure that weeds will find it quickly. That’s why, in some situations, it’s smart to lay a landscape fabric over the ground and cover it with a layer of mulch (the mulch protects the landscape fabric from harmful UV rays).

But in a shrub planting bed, these weed barriers are a great ally in helping you achieve a low-maintenance yard. The Spruce / K. Dave Early spring is a good time to install trees and shrubs and to plant perennial flower borders, as long as they’re hardy perennials. For annuals and tender perennials, wait till the last frost date has passed for your region.

However, if you will be applying a preemergent herbicide in spring to control crabgrass in an existing lawn, it may be better to overseed in the fall. The Spruce / K. Dave Sometimes it’s easier to fight weeds before they even emerge, rather than waiting until they rear their ugly heads.

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That’s where preemergent herbicides come into play, particularly for crabgrass control. Spring is the time to use a preemergent herbicide on crabgrass, and timing is of the essence. Crabgrass seed germinates when the soil temperature reaches 55 to 60 degrees F. You need to apply the preemergent herbicide prior to this time.

There’s a more convenient method, used by the old-timers, and it involves keeping tabs on the flowering shrubs in your area. According to this method, just apply the preemergent herbicide sometime between when the forsythias blooming and the lilacs blooming. Pests pose another challenge that can best be addressed by taking preventive measures.

In regions plagued by deer, deer fencing is one option, but it’s smarter simply to use deer-resistant plants (unless restricting your plant selection in this way offends your sense of gardening freedom). Ticks are another pest to be concerned over. Here, though, the worry isn’t over what they’ll do to your plants but what they’ll do to you.

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The Spruce / K. Dave Now that winter’s over, it’s time to remove any shrub shelters protecting your bushes and size up their pruning needs. There are different reasons to remove wood from shrubs. If we’re talking about old, dead wood or wood recently damaged by winterkill, then the question is quite different in nature from when we’re discussing healthy wood.